How To Draft Your Own Circle Skirt | Free Tutorial

Evening all! 

So this year I have taught myself how to draft my own patterns in a way that makes sense to me, which is pretty amazing! So as this was requested by a fellow seamstress I thought I'd do a tutorial on how I draft and make my circle skirts. This is part 1, where I will focus on drafting the pattern pieces using your own measurements. Part 2 will come later this week and will be all about making the actual skirt! So let's jump right in...

What You Will Need:
Pattern drafting paper (or A3 paper and a good glue stick)
A ruler (I had to edit this post as I actually forgot to include this!)
A set square or a protractor
A calculator (unless you're excellent at dividing by decimals in your head)
A large table or area of hard floor
Patience and flexibility
About 1 hour

Optional extras include a cat who doesn't like your attention being on anything but him.

STEP 1. Measure
You need to take your waist measurement and the desired length of the skirt. I take the waist measurement snugly so I can just fit 2 fingers between the tape measure and the waist. This way it will hug the body when worn and accentuate your waist. To take the length of the skirt, measure from the point of your waist down to where you want it to stop. For the one I was making it was 67cm, which stops at my friend's knee. But obviously, everyone is different!

STEP 2. Draft

1. So I don't use pattern paper or anything for circle skirts, since the pieces are so large it would cost a fortune. Instead I always have a pad of A3 paper on hand and stick about 9 sheets together like so:

People laugh at me when I ask where my "good" glue stick has gone. Some glue sticks are just better than others. 

2. Once all the pieces are stuck together you need to draw a right angle in the corner, it doesn't matter which one!

I knew taking Standard Grade Graphic Communication would come in handy one day!

3. You now have to do some maths magic, and don't get too excited when I tell you that you get to use pi. Divide your waist measurement by pi (or 3.14 if you don't have a pi button) and then by 2. This will give you the radius of the circle which will form the waist of the skirt. I usually round it to 1 decimal place, but I don't think it would cause too much difficulty if you rounded it to the nearest whole number.

4. Draw from the point of the right angle straight lines which are the length of your radius. (This was a really difficult instruction to phrase... see photo below)

Label the right angle A, the vertical line B and the horizontal line C

Like you're drawing a triangle basically but don't join the points to make it one. 

5. You then need to take your radius and mark a series of points from your right angle between the space B to C. This will form a curve.

Join the dots (YAY!) and you have your waist for your skirt (DOUBLE YAY!).

6. Now draw a straight line from points B and C - this line should match your skirt length with about 2cm added for seam allowance. Label your new points D and E. 

You should now have a corner called A; waist labelled BC; a straight line BD and another CE.

7. Repeat the join the dots interval measurement trick that we did with the waistline to create a curved hem for the skirt. 

8. Now add a 1.5cm seam allowance to line CE. You can do it from point A to E if you want but we don't actually need to talk about A anymore. A can go.

9. Add a fold line to line BD like this one here:

10. Cut out and copy this exact pattern onto another piece of pattern paper, but with adding the 1.5cm seam allowance to BOTH lines (CE and BD) this time. 
If it helps you keep track, the first pattern piece we made (with the fold line) can be labelled front skirt and piece 1; and the second pattern piece can be labelled back skirts and pieces 2 and 3. Pieces 2 and 3 are cut by cutting 2 pieces of fabric but not on the fold, as we need that centre back seam for the zip.

STEP 3: Make the waistband:
Take your original waist measurement and add 8cm to this. This is because of stuff to do with pi which I don't fully understand but intend to work out! Draw a rectangle which is this measurement divided by 2 (in my case 87cm + 8cm = 95cm/2 = 47.5cm ) by 12cm. You can change the 12cm around if you want a wider or narrower waistband, I just think 12cm is a nice width). Add a fold line to one of the shorter sides to the rectangle so that you can cut this on the fold.


And once you've done all of that, you should be left with all the pieces you need to make your very own circle skirt which *should* fit you perfectly!

Be sure to check my blog later in the week on part 2 of this tutorial, which is when we will make the actual skirt using these pattern pieces! Til then, happy drafting!

Lots of love,

Katharine

Pattern Drafting by A Newbie

Afternoon all!

My sister recently came home all excited because she'd seen a beautiful outfit in the window of a shop in York called Bowler Vintage. However, she couldn't justify the cost of it and so decided that I could make it for less money (she clearly was never intending on paying labour costs!)
This is the outfit...

She wants the outfit on the front mannequin.

So we journeyed to our favourite fabric shop and she picked out some beautiful fabric for the top and skirt, saving £35 in the process. The skirt is your basic circle skirt which I am extremely proud of as I drafted it all myself (see previous blogpost) and it's turned out beautifully. I am extremely proud of the drape on it and keep looking at it in awe.

However, the shirt is proving to be a bit more difficult. Heather was confident that I could just hack a previous pattern rather than buy a commercial one for it, I am less confident about it.
I'm hacking Simplicity 6107 (B), pictured below, but as it has a yoke and I need to add a collar I am completely drafting in the dark with it all.

I am currently at this stage with it. I have copied the pattern pieces for all components, but need to add a collar, button stand and turn ups to the sleeves. I'm not at all sure if I'm doing it right and am absolutely terrified of actually cutting it out in case I ruin it. So I suppose what I'm asking is - HELP!!!! How do I do this? Would it be better to buy a commercial pattern? And does anyone know of the perfect pattern? I am desperate to make it but terrified too.

If you have any help you can share your wisdom in the comments on here or on social media using the buttons above!

Thanks, and lots of love,

Katharine

8 Things To Do When Life Gets Tough

So, this is a bit of a different one for me, but I thought it might help some readers. Without going into too much detail, I have had a very rough month with things just getting darker and darker. However, I am a proactive bean and I know when I am in a bad way and what will help me get out of it. So I thought I'd compile a list of things which are proven to get me out of sad moments like this, and god dammit they work pretty well...

1. Go Away
First off, you need to get away. It's amazing how much a change of scenery can help your thought processes - different people, different environments - to me, it's the ultimate cure. I have just graduated and after the year I've had all I need is a holiday, but being short on cash and without a valid passport I decided to book something within the UK. And where better to go than home? I'm off to Aberdeen in 3 weeks and I know it's going to do me the world of good. Going away will allow you to come home with fresh eyes on whatever situation you may be in. It'll remind you of why you are where you are, and maybe even remind you of your bigger ambitions. Perhaps it'll give you that kick to move on to somewhere new? Whatever it does for you, it's only good. Take the leap - book a cheap flight and a hostel and go out and see the world!

2. Get Healthy

For me, exercise is usually a dirty word. I used to love running but hadn't hit the pavements for a few years... until the other week. The endorphins alone cheered me up a lot and it actually helped me work out some anger and frustrations. I'm now hooked again and am determined to run 10k by the end of the year. As well as that, knowing that you're taking care of yourself will make you feel more positive, more awake, and more hopeful. I'm not sure how it does it, but it does. Even if it's just switching toast for cereal, little steps can help you feel brighter and better about yourself.

3. Quit

So, not in a bad way... but quit the negativity in your life. If you have a think about the people in your life, is there anyone that just drags you down, or tries to make every situation a negative one? If so, it's time to cut them loose. Of course, it may not be a person, for me it was a habit that was dragging me down and making me feel rubbish about myself. Quitting is hard, but it's so so worth it.

4. Broaden Your Horizons

Is there anything you've ALWAYS wanted to do? For me, one of them anyway, it's to go to India. I don't care what anyone says about the dangers, it's on my bucket list and job situation come September permitting, my best Pani and I are doing it next summer! Maybe it's a new hobby or sport? I've always wanted to learn how to dance and have resolved to start lessons after my first paycheck because you know what? LIFE IS TOO SHORT NOT TO DANCE.

5. Always Have Something To Be Excited About

Maybe it's a big trip to India, maybe it's wearing your new lipstick? It could be having a bath at the end of the day, or treating yourself to a bar of Galaxy. Nothing is too small to get excited about. When you're depressed it's easy to get blind sighted by everything that's going on in your personal life and forget the world out of your bubble. If you have one thing a day that takes you away from that soon you'll start looking for things to get excited about, until your life is one excitable ball of excitement. Like one of those huge bubbles that street performers create. NOTHING is as exciting as seeing one of the giant bubbles.

6. Make Lists

The idea of staying in bed all day watching Jezza and eating crisps is very appealing at times, but it's not going to do you any good at all. There's always something to be done but it's hard to think about them when you're low. If you force yourself to make a list for the next day right before bed, you'll earn that slob time (which I agree is necessary when you're feeling rubbish, but in moderation). Even if the list consists of find scarf, paint nails and cuddle cat it's still better than lying in bed doing nothing.

7. Avoid Alcohol

All I've wanted to do these past few weeks is have a glass of wine and forget about it all, but I know it'll only make everything worse the next day. Alcohol is a depressant, and is not the solution (this is coming from a Scot too!). Believe me, go for a run or a walk or a swim. The pain you feel after a good workout is never as bad as a hangover and you'll feel amazing about yourself rather than suffer from hangover guilt.

8. Believe That It Will Get Better

It's the hardest thing to do out of all of these, especially when things feel bleaker than ever. You may be sick of people telling you it'll all be ok and that things are meant to be. Platitudes just don't work sometimes... BUT they are true. Pain is temporary and things always happen to pave the way to even better and brighter things. It may not seem like it right now, but your life is about to get AMAZING. All you need to do is stick around to see it happen. And that's my main point - stick around - you'll miss something amazing that's about to happen to you if you don't.

If this helped anyone at all then I've done my job. I know writing it alone has helped me.

Stay strong and happy, lovelies.

Lots of love, 

Kat

Next On Sew Well Travelled: My Russian Doll Circle Skirt! Come back on Friday 29th July to find out more :)