How To 'Get Into' Sewing and Dressmaking...

Often when I post links to my blog online, usually on Facebook, or when I flaunt my creations around the office, I'm asked how I got into dressmaking. I hear all too often from people who have always wanted to make their own clothes, but just don't feel 'clever' enough, or don't know where to start, or a bad experience in A-Level Textiles class put them off for life. It's like dressmaking is some secret skill that you don't just 'pick up', and that you have to have all the knowledge in the world before you can even start.
I have to admit... I was the same. For years I had been wishing that I knew how to make my own clothes, that I could just do it, but I was afraid to start. But really, since starting sewing again nearly a year ago I've discovered that the only skills you really need to get started are patience and perseverance.

'Scuse the face, I was tired.

Back in January of this year I "picked up" dressmaking. In that I'd finished my quilt and a couple of little projects and decided to myself "right, now I'm going to make a dress". I'd bought my first sewing magazine with a free pattern, and figured I'd just buy the fabric and make the dress.
I've been luckier than some with starting as dressmaking is in my blood. My Grandmother made clothes for M&S, and then taught my mother who spent the 70s and 80s making her own clothes. My mum had recently bought a new sewing machine, and as I am currently living at home I was able to borrow it. For the most part I was stubborn and refused guidance throughout the first dress, but my mum was on hand to help me figure out the most basic skills in sewing which I lacked. That dress took about a month or two to finish, but I still wear it now...
So I thought I'd run down my six top tips for starting this brilliant hobby, I hope they help you eliminate the fear and just go for it!

1. Your First Pattern Should Be A Real Challenge
I've read a lot of these kinds of articles where dressmakers recommend picking something simple so that you don't lose confidence by making mistakes. I disagree, we learn by making mistakes and picking something difficult in the first instance will make everything else seem more manageable and logical.
My first dress, the one picture above involved a bodice with princess seams, darts, set in sleeves, front facing, a zip and then a full skirt. The princess seams baffled me, but from that I learnt about 'easing in', which also taught me in turn that dressmaking is not just shoving two pieces of fabric together and sewing. The front facing was a totally different notion to me, it was something I didn't even know existed, and we still don't talk about zips... Though I have a zipper foot now, so life's a bit easier. Tip 1 (a) - get a zipper foot.


2. Get A Book.
If you live in Britain, you'll know that The Works is a gold mine for cut price books, and because of how popular sewing is becoming they currently have a much more comprehensive craft section than ever before. I got this one for about £4 I think, but if you don't have access to this shop you can easily get one online and it's worth investing. It'll become your bible. Don't forget that a quick Google search will also answer most questions too, and there are plenty of sewing tutorial YouTube videos. 

3.  Just Do It.
No, I am not sponsored by Nike, but the sentiment in their tagline works here. A lot of the time the problem with doing something is getting started, and so we put it off longer and longer and it never gets done, that dress never gets made, and we are left with the never knowing of how that dress might have looked. Find a local fabric shop, or look online at a website such as Minerva Crafts, pick something you fall in love with and just start. Though I recommend cotton, stretch fabric is a nightmare and will make you hit things this early on.

4. No Machine? No Problem!

Bertha has now been upgraded
but is still loved.

Using your bible (see tip 2) take the time to learn some basic hand stitches - running stitch, back stitch, slip stitch. Sure, I love my machine, I love rarely having to hand sew anything and I love the power old Bertha 2 gives me;  but it's not VITAL. My mum hand sews everything and more often than not it looks just as, if not even more professional. If you're adamant on getting a machine but are lacking the funds see if you can borrow one from a friend or a family member, or find a cheaper model online to get you started, but don't let not having one hold you back. After all, they didn't use machines in the days of Yore.
ALSO - fun fact! Even though I sewed the patches to their fleece components, the patches and bias of my t-shirt quilt were all sewn by hand.

5. Get the Right Tools.
You needn't spend a fortune, but getting the basics is key to success and preventing crisis'. Make sure you have the following tools in your stash, and preferably a pretty box to keep them in...
A seam ripper - for those welcomed mistakes (or learning curves as I prefer to call them)
Fabric scissors - NOT FOR PAPER.
Paper scissors - NOT FOR FABRIC.
Hand sewing needles - for practice. You can get these at most supermarkets.
Pins - good quality ones please, if they're not sharp enough they'll damage your lovely cotton. And then you'll cry.
Tailors chalk or pen - for marking darts and other bits. If you wanna go upmarket you can get a tracing wheel too, but I'd always have tailors chalk as a back up.
A tape measure - to measure yourself, and others, and random things just for fun.
A selection of threads - get a bunch of your favourite colours, and also black and white ones, you always need a back up.
A pin cushion - or EVEN BETTER! Make one! You are a crafter now after all.

6. Be Brave.

My first dress, and I sat there staring at
all this for a good amount of time.

OK, it sounds like an odd thing to need to be brave about, but it really can be a little daunting when you cut out all the pattern pieces and lay out the fabric, having never seen a lay plan before, never mind used one. The key is to take it one step at a time and follow the instructions. Remember that you're meant to be having fun, you wanted to do this, make whatever you did. Taking things slowly and bit by bit will allow you to learn and not get overwhelmed. And remember, if it doesn't work out the way you planned that's ok, no one's first dress/project is in any way perfect!

Please share your first or most recent projects with me, or any tips you have for new starters on here, Twitter and Instagram, and I shall speak to you soon!

Much love,

Kat xx

I Like to Wiggle Wiggle | Eliza M Pattern

Happy .... Tuesday, readers!
I recently took it upon myself after watching a little too much Mad Men to make myself a 1950's inspired wiggle dress. Basically so I could work towards looking like my girl crush...

Is there anyone more perfect?!

Enter my first Eliza M pattern. The one which I used was made specially for 'Love Sewing' magazine and was free with their October issue... The Eva Dress.

It works best with stretchy knit fabrics which I have been looking to experiment with, so this was the perfect time to try it out! I chose a gorgeous plum bengaline fabric with a two way stretch which was a DREAM to work with as it didn't fray or move around too much. As the pattern goes up to a size 20 I didn't have to add any inches either and was chuffed to find that I could have got away with a size 18 in the end.

The pattern itself is fairly easy to follow and well set out with helpful tips on how to manage the fabric and mark darts etc, which would be especially helpful for beginners! Unfortunately it is missing the step where you need to attach the facings, however a quick Google if you're unsure will solve this! It's completed with a 22" zip and a slit up the back. It's my new favourite work dress and one of my colleagues couldn't believe I made it myself!

As I was making this for myself at the same time as the one I made for my friend Katie it took quite a while. I had to tear myself away from it to focus on Katie's and as I was determined to finish it in time for my birthday weekend (I didn't) I made a few mistakes through rushing. But hey, what's a dress of mine without a few mistakes?!

I'd seriously recommend this pattern, no matter what your size. it's pretty clingy but it works (although I do feel more comfortable wearing them with super stomach holding in tights). So any size, it plays well to your curves and has a very womanly feel to it. I can't wait to dress it up with heels and tights with seams up the back for a night out!

I was GOING to post a picture of me in the dress, but as I tend to wear it to work and I leave the house like "a hurricane passing through" (as my mum so lovingly put) I never have time to post a picture of me head to toe in my wiggly creation. Which, in a sense is a blessing as I still don't look like Christina Hendricks :(

Til next time, it won't be so long... promise!

Kat xx

16 Things That Will Inevitably Happen When You Get Addicted To Sewing...

Whether you're a new seamstress inspired by the Great British Sewing Bee or an established sewing veteran who has picked it up once again you will relate to some, or all of these points. If not then sit tight, it is still to come!


1. You become a regular in your local haberdashery/fabric store.
Whether it is John Lewis, HobbyCraft or a local business, you're greeted with a smile, on first name terms, known by tastes, and remembered by projects. It's the first place you go to on payday, and you can ALWAYS justify a new addition, even if it is just a fat quarter...

2. You start cancelling plans in order to sew, and don't even feel guilty about it...
"Oh no I can't tonight... I'm needed"
"Who by?"
"...Janome"

3. You find yourself talking about your clothes even more, just to gloat.
Today I asked a male uninterested colleague if he liked my dress, just so I could tell him I made it and feel the praise. You strut around just waiting for someone to comment on your new creation, just so you can say "Oh no... I MADE it" when asked where you got it from.

4. You have had to label your scissors to ensure housemates know THEY'RE NOT FOR PAPER.
The HORROR when someone tries to cut paper with your fabric scissors, as if someone has used your favourite dress as a towel.

5. Your sewing machine (if you have one) has a name, so you can chastise it when it does something bad.
Bertha loves me, and I love her. Except, however, when she carries on sewing when the thread has broken/the bobbin has run out/decides to eat my fabric/generally acts like an erratic lunatic.

6. You have less money than ever before

Handmade doesn't mean cheap. But you can always justify £30 on fabric and £5.99 on a magazine, because it's your love. And so it's ok.

7. You realise ANYTHING is possible with a sewing machine, even if it isn't Pinterest worthy.

8. Your seam ripper is your most used tool, and you hate that.
One day I'll make something right first time. Until then, hello old friend...

9. You feel less inclined to hate people.
Sewing releases endorphins, finishing a project gives you pride, looking forward to sewing at the end of a rubbish day is an amazing thing.

10. Sewing is basically a diet.
You are constantly moving between the table and the iron, you can't eat a jam donut while making a dress, and since you have to take more photos of yourself head to toe you own more stomach sucking in tights than ever before. (not necessary though, because we're all beautiful no matter what.)

11. Acquiring storage and designing a future sewing room is totally normal.
I currently have 2 wall hangings waiting, furniture decided on, and the dressmaking dummy selected. Now all I need is a room.

12. Hours are spent analysing and visualising patterns.
The fear of wasting beautiful fabric on a substandard pattern is real.

13. You walk around shops thinking "can I make that?" 
You see a dress you love, check the price tag, see the rows and rows of identical pieces, and evacuate to the fabric shop.

14. You can spend hours of joy organising your craft things.
"What if... WHAT IF... I store my seam ripper in the top tray, rather than the bottom... GENIUS!"

15. Time is precious, and time not spent crafting is time wasted.
"What do you MEAN you won't pay me to make stuff?!"

16. You realise you have the greatest hobby in the entire world, and can't imagine life without it.
You're hooked. It's like falling in love; you want to spend every day with it, you want to treat it to things, discuss it constantly, drop it into conversation, show it off, rub it in that you can MAKE things. Even if the rates of production may vary according to the needs of that silly reality thing, you are, and always will be, a sewist.

Are YOU a sewaholic? If not, WHY not? Feel free to leave other signs and suggestions below and follow me if you want to hear more about my life as a self proclaimed sewing addict! 

til next time... Kat xx

The Katie Dress

Hiya lovely people!
Sorry I've been so rubbish with blogging lately, with work and actually finding time to sew I've been sleeping rather than blogging but that is about to change! With effect from today I will be posting a creation every Sunday without fail, and maybe a few extras during the week - stay tuned lovelies!

So, if you read my previous post you'll know that for the past two weeks I have been working on my first made to measure project for my friend Katie. What a challenge it was, but I really enjoyed it, even after all the long nights at the sewing machine and definitely will be doing it again! Though without such a tight deadline next time.

Anyway, Katie had been looking for a 1960's shift dress, a little like those pictured below, and so I got to work with some poorly drawn sketches pretending I knew what I was doing. I still had a long way to go...

Anyway, Katie chose some lovely nautical blue and white striped fabric from Minerva Crafts, however it turned out to be a little thinner and a bit more see through than we anticipated, which was actually a blessing, as it meant I could do all the fittings with the lining. It also meant I could learn how to line something!

So I went to Leeds Kirkgate Market to find some plain white lining material and whilst I was there picked up Simplicity pattern 1197, which I thought would be perfect. However, by the time I got it home I realised that the pattern was completely different, had a front panel which wasn't suitable for the striped pattern of the dress, so in the end I kind of had to wing it!

And so after taking her measurements... it began.

The lining fabric was a dream to work with, and I was particularly proud of how it turned out...

The next day Katie and I met at work and went to some unknown toilets in the building that I work in for the first fitting. Some people tried to visit the loo, don't they know that is my dressing room!

Sadly I was a tad generous with adding inches and the forgot how petite the lovely Katie is and so the dress ending up looking like a lab coat. But no matter, it's always easier to take in than take out. This is how it looked after pinning...

In total 4.5 inches were to come off, the sleeves to be cut down by 8.5 inches and 6 inches off the hem. After this I took the sleeves off, took it in at the side seams, the back, and then down the front to keep it in proportion and take in the shoulders. Everything fit for our next fitting and so I started on the outer fabric.

As it turned out, the fabric was much thinner than I anticipated and frayed very easily. But this is not yet an issue in this story...
I managed to finish it in 10 hours last Wednesday due to taking annual leave. I was shattered but immensely proud of finishing it before the Thursday deadline and showed all my colleagues with pride...

Unfortunately, when adding the lining to the outer it had eaten into my seam allowances and the perfect fit was no more. The bust was still too big and the skirt too narrow. The final deadline was the next day so I made it a mission that night to fix it. After a visit to my favourite Haberdashery and a brainstorming session with the owner I fixed the issues with the use of pleats.
It took 5 hours, and I finished at 1am, and then did some more on my commute the next morning, but it was done. Luckily I took some photos before I crashed out.

So it's far from perfect, the sleeves could do with some work and due to the fragility of the material the seams are frayed to unpicking and picking, but it's done. In a way I feel like it was a blessing in disguise as I think the buttons add a certain something to it. The additional pleat at the back was a good call too as the side seams just couldn't be taken out much more.

I don't think I've done a bad job though for my first piece... I mean, look at this pattern matching...

It's a bit off but come on! For a first timer that's pretty awesome.

At the end of it all, Katie was smiling, she's wearing it over another dress but that makes the fit even better. She can't currently lift her arms all the way over her head as I need to take the sleeves and the armholes a little further out, but it zips and it fits!

And due to me hoping to make a business out of this (one day...!) I even made a little tag...

So there it is, my first made to measure project, the first of many more I hope! Please let me know what you think and any tips or comments you may have and until next time folks!

Don't forget to follow me if you like my stuff, I'm on Bloglovin' too, and share this with any fellow crafty friends!

Til next time, Kat xx

How To Make A Clip Frame Purse (Or How To Ruin Something With Fabric Glue)

Happy April, readers! It is officially my BIRTHDAY MONTH! I don't care what my boyfriend says, it IS a thing.
So over the Bank Holiday weekend I decided to make myself a new purse in a last ditch attempt to save some money. I figure, if I can't carry around every coffee card, loyalty card and magic money card (credit cards...) I own I can't overspend. So as I can never find one affordable that I like in shops I decided to make my own clip purse.
Now don't get me wrong, it's still pretty big, but I can only keep 3 cards in it which is a win.

For the first time in my relatively short sewing career I made something without a pattern! What a win! It's almost worked too... amazing. It's really easy to make and it only took me a few hours too.

So to begin with I traced around the clip frame (£3 on eBay) onto some greaseproof paper (my holy grail) and sketched the kind of shape I wanted the purse to be from there. I then drew a line down the middle of this and cut out the better half of my template (I like symmetry...)

Then I took the material I was using and folded a bit over, right sides facing up. Placing the straight line I drew down the half of the template on to the fold I pinned and snipped. I did this twice on each fabric piece I was using (two for outer and two for lining). 

o

I then did the same again to produce 4 matching pieces of light weight iron on interfacing. Then you simply affix the interfacing to the fabric to give it a little more structure.

Side note: do any other sewers get a weird thrill out of pressing fabric with a hot iron? I hate ironing but I bloody love pressing my own creations.





Anyway, next I made some credit card pockets by drawing round one of my cards onto, you guessed it, greaseproof paper. I made 3 slots so cut 6 matching pieces of fabric. You need to make the cuts a fair bit bigger than the card, however, as it turns out mine are too small. But they're sewn on now and I'm not redoing that!

I sewed each pocket RST then turned them out and pressed. You'll notice from this photo that I made a 4th pocket, but we don't talk about that one...


So then I had to make the main body of the purse. To make sure I didn't get overly excited with the sewing machine and seal the thing I marked with pencil where the bottom of the clip frame will come to...
I then sewed the outer right sides together, adding a little ribbon loop to the side as you can see to the left... (to the left to the left everything you own in a box to the left).



So with the outer done it was time to sew the inner. Which is where my credit card slot fail happened. I basically tiered the pockets as you can see in the picture, but sewed too far in which made them teeeeeeeeeny. Not to self, in future check before doing the lining. But no matter, it just means no cards for me ever! Do all your inner features before any other sewing, far easier :)

At least it looks good...

So next I stitched RST with the lining again, but leaving a 3ish inch gap at the bottom in the middle, and turned it round and pressed again.
THIS WAS WRONG. The next series of photos are to show you how NOT to insert lining...

*La la la Kat is feeling overly confident and is quite tired but in the sewing zone so will just carry on anyway la la la la la.... "look how pretty and perfect the fabric is! I'm glad I'm doing this right and won't have to unpick it!" lalala*

Right side facing wrong side.... that is always how it goes.... <_< 

"I AM SO CLEVER! I GOT IT RIGHT FIRST TIME! Let's sew :D"

 "....oh. Balls."

*goes to bed*

So, I had a long sleep, got up, and started again...

So, RIGHT SIDES TOGETHER, put the lining inside the outer fabric and pin together. Sew around the top edges (where the frame will be essentially and where the edges are raw) and notch the curves as you go.

 
Then... using the gap in the lining that you left when sewing it the first time, pull the outer through so it looks something like that to the left (try and resist the urge to sing Beyonce...)
 


Press the open seam and stitch it closed. I usually press the lining and the outer at this stage too (believe it or not, this isn't the first time I've made something with a lining). Now you can push the lining back into the outer fabric and it will actually look like a purse!

 So next came fabric glue. I was so tempted to use superglue but after reading a lot online I was put off this idea and went into town to get some fabric glue. Annoyingly though, the nozzle was quite wide and as I applied it quite liberally to the channel of the clip frame when I pushed the purse in it OOZED. I wiped it off the fabric with a wet cloth but there are still some yellowy stains. It can't be helped and I have learnt my lesson for next time! Sadly though, it doesn't look as perfect as it should due to this error in judgement. Next time I'll invest in a teeny tiny brush for this. Some instructions have also suggested using cord in the channel to help the bond so I'll try this too. 
At the end of the day though, it was a learning curve! Not everything in life is perfect and considering it was my first try it doesn't look too shabby... does it?

 Til next time loves,

Kat x